The next course is an absolute stunner. A modestly named celeriac and mushroom pie shows serious skill and stays just the right side of cheffy fervour. The light flaky pastry encloses intensely savoury flavours – earthy celeriac and rich girolles, with a cep cream to dip it in and feathery bits of crispy kale to add texture and a ferrous note. This might be my dish of the year.
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“If imitation is the sincerest form of flattery, then the team at Richmond must be feeling flattered beyond their wildest dreams at the minute.”
”If he never achieves anything else in his career, there is already the glittering, culinary footnote, David O’Byrne invented chicken fat toast”
”I liked the melty cheek meat best and the croquette was divine – crunchy on the outside with soft, spicy, fatty little gems on the inside”